Daisies and mightites join growing number of burger restaurants in lower New York

It seems that several neighborhoods in Manhattan and Brooklyn have recently populated with a new style of burger restaurant. Examples are Daisies in the West Village and Mighties on the Lower East Side Market Line, both offering excellent versions of a classic cheeseburger.

The latest wave of burgers started last year in Brooklyn, at places like Cozy Royale and Burgie’s, where beef patties have gone from giant bistro-size to a smaller, widely seized, and food-focused standard. Butcher. Franchise-conscious operators have put burgers at the center of their quick and casual menus, focusing more on smart branding. There were multi-patty versions for those who demanded more meat and vegetarian alternatives made from Impossible Meat and others.

Months later, the trend spread to downtown Manhattan’s neighborhoods with swift revenge, as four new places quickly opened: Morgernstern’s, Bronson’s Burgers, 7th Street Burger and Smashed, all toppling gloriously hamburgers. fatty oozing cheese at prices ranging from $ 6 to $ 12. From there, 7th Street is the best, although it most closely emulates the Shake Shack model. It offered an even sparser menu than Shake Shack’s, while elegantly reminiscent of working-class burgers of the past, like a crumpled black-and-white photo of a place your grandfather might have visited.

Daisies Better Burgers in the West Village.

Now two more burger restaurants have popped up downtown in a similar style. Daisies Better Burgers opened just three weeks ago in a tight space on Hudson Street near 10th Street, in a storefront that has been like a revolving door for restaurants for the past decade – most recently. , a place offering brunch all day all week. The cream-colored facade open to the street sports a bright red awning, making it shine brightly on the block, and crisp white tables cluster on the sidewalk in front.

Ordering is from a counter at the back and you can see the kitchen filling the space behind. Counter attendants tout sustainability and ethical sourcing of ingredients, and indeed, the website has a page listing suppliers, verifying the name of Niman Ranch as the source of its beef. Three burgers are available, the classic (burger, $ 11; cheeseburger, $ 12), a bacon burger ($ 13) and the “fancy b” ($ 15), which features an upgrade from truffle mayo. and Gruyère, instead of American cheese.

A burger cut in cross section to show juicy pink meat and toppings above and below inside the bun.

Classic daisies seen in cross section.

Yellowish fries sprinkled with herbs in a red rimmed mug.

Daisy fries.

Brown cauliflower florets stick above the red rim of an enamel mug, backlit.

Don’t miss the fried cauliflower.

I tried the classic cheeseburger twice, and the first time it was a bit dry and overcooked, but the second time it was splendid, cooked to perfection and bubbling with pink juices. Layered on a shiny brioche bun, Daisies’ burgers are topped with lots of salad, including lettuce, tomato, sweet pickles and red onions, perhaps in an attempt to make them even more virtuous. The effect isn’t bad, especially if you’re a fan of the old-fashioned California style of backyard burgers. But if the galette is not perfectly cooked, the mild-tasting beef takes a back seat under the onslaught of vegetables.

Another aspect of this burger is worth mentioning – in addition to plain mayonnaise, it’s coated with something called daisy relish. Upon close examination, it turns out to be some sort of tomato compote, possibly intended as a substitute for ketchup. It’s not bad, but you wouldn’t want to put it on your fries. By the way, these fries ($ 4.50) are yellowish, sprinkled with herbs and the mushy side, although they are festively swaddled in an enamel mug, as if it were a chic bistro. A fried cauliflower option ($ 7) is better, which looks like a Middle Eastern bloom.

While Daisies Beef is mild and understated, Mighties’ Meat (note the lack of a similar streamlined apostrophe in the brand) is intensely flavorful, and not just because of its careful searing. This new burger stand, an offshoot of the nearby Ends Meat butcher, bravely moved into Market Line, the struggling food court under Essex Market last month.

A stall with a white sign above a counter, displaying the logo in red,

Find Mighties in Market Line, under Essex Market.

Two men prepare burgers at two separate counters.

Hamburger blend at Mighties.

A burger on a seed bun with a circle of raw onion hanging over the cheese on the patty.

The Mighties cheeseburger doesn’t have a salad on it.

The shallow kitchen is the place for frenetic activity, and the menu, using what he calls “grass-fed beef,” only offers two burgers, along with fries and a hot dog, as well. than a premium dry-aged burger ($ 22) on Fridays. The cheeseburger ($ 13) is the thing to get. It comes on a sesame seed bun that luckily isn’t a brioche, with nothing but raw onions, American cheese, and a sauce that flaunts a mustard note, but undoubtedly has a lot of it in. other ingredients. The meat is not only intensely flavored, but has also been aggressively salted, causing the flavors to explode.

The fries are great too – with skin, firm, and full of flavor. The Mighties Burger ($ 16), which also has lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and the same sauce, as well as American cheese, was not as good. Stacked, the farmers market level produce distracted attention from one of the tastiest burgers I’ve ever tried. By the way, the chili hot dog is also worth ordering.

So I would recommend the simple cheeseburgers at Daisies and Mighties, although I would skip the fries on the first in favor of the fried cauliflower side, and go with the excellent fries on the second. Still, both burgers call for a comparison with the one from 7th Street Burger, which is better in my opinion.

115 Delancey Street, New York, NY 10002

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About Robert Moody

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